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What Is Mullet Roe? Bottarga, Fresh Roe and How Australians Eat It

The Tasman Star Team4 min read
mullet roebottargasea mulletGold Coast seafoodNepali cooking
What Is Mullet Roe? Bottarga, Fresh Roe and How Australians Eat It

What Is Mullet Roe? Bottarga, Fresh Roe and How Australians Eat It

TL;DR: Mullet roe is the egg sack of sea mullet. Fry it fresh. Salt and dry it and you have bottarga, the same product Italians grate over pasta. It is not caviar.


Mullet roe is one of those ingredients people hunt by a foreign name, then walk past in an Australian shop. Bottarga is cured mullet roe. Karasumi is the Japanese version. The fish underneath is sea mullet, Mugil cephalus, and it swims past the Gold Coast every winter.

We sell local sea mullet at 1 to 1.5 kg. When females are running, we also see fresh roe. Ask. It is not a standing weekly SKU the way prawns are. When it is here, it goes quickly.

Fresh roe vs bottarga vs caviar

ProductWhat it isTextureHow you eat itPrice feel
Fresh mullet roeWhole raw egg sackFirm, creamy once cookedPan fried slicesEveryday, when in season
Bottarga / karasumiSalted, pressed, dried mullet roeDense, salty, sliceableGrated or shaved, not friedLuxury imported, cheaper homemade
CaviarLoose sturgeon eggsSoft individual popsSpoon, bliniLuxury, different animal
TobikoLoose flying fish eggsCrunchy grainsSushi, pokeEveryday

Roe still inside the membrane is a lobe. Caviar and tobiko are loose eggs. If it looks like a small orange organ, it is a sack. If it looks like jam, it is a tin of eggs.

Why this fish matters here

Sea mullet is an Australian table fish that a lot of shops underrate because it is oily and it is cheap. That oil is the point. It carries flavour in a curry, it smokes well, and the roe is a delicacy everywhere else in the world that has the same species.

Mediterranean bottarga, Taiwanese and Japanese karasumi, and the Greek avgotaraho are all this idea: take the roe of Mugil cephalus, salt it, dry it, shave it.

Gold Coast Nepali and South Asian regulars already know the fresh version. They fry it. Our customer recipe, Nepali fish curry with crispy roe fry, is the local method: mullet cutlets in a mustard tomato masala, roe slices fried until the edges crisp.

How to fry fresh mullet roe

  1. Rinse the sack, pat dry, leave the membrane on.
  2. Slice into 1 to 1.5 cm pieces.
  3. Salt, turmeric, a pinch of chilli if you cook that way.
  4. Medium pan, thin film of oil.
  5. 2 to 3 minutes a side. The outside should brown. The inside should set, not stay wet.

Overcooking pops the membrane and you lose the lot into the pan. Treat it like a thick slice of terrine.

A simple home cure, if you want bottarga

This is the outline, not a food-safety manual. Start with very fresh, intact sacks, no nicks.

  1. Pack the sacks in coarse salt for 24 to 48 hours in the fridge, turning once.
  2. Rinse briefly, pat very dry.
  3. Press between boards with light weight, fridge, 1 to 2 days.
  4. Hang or rack-dry in a cool, airy spot until the roe feels firm and sliceable, often 1 to 3 weeks depending on size and humidity.
  5. Wrap and keep cold. Grate. Do not fry cured bottarga.

Gold Coast humidity fights a hanging cure. A fridge rack with a fan nearby is more realistic than a Sardinian cellar.

Buying notes

  • Whole mullet should smell clean and feel firm. Cloudy eyes or a strong muddy smell: skip.
  • Roe sacks should be intact, orange to deep gold, no grey patches.
  • If you only want the flavour of bottarga tonight and we have no fresh roe, buy mullet for the curry and tobiko for a different egg altogether. Do not pretend they are the same.

Mullet is a local wild fish. For a white, mild fillet instead, flathead is the easy weeknight swap. For the full species picture on "salmon" names, see wild vs farmed salmon.

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Written by

The Tasman Star Team · Gold Coast fishmongers

Articles from the fishmongers at Tasman Star Seafood. We source, fillet and sell fresh seafood on the Gold Coast seven days a week, and everything we publish comes from what we handle in the shop.

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